It’s not uncommon to come across a book by a food writer that at least mentions Paris. In fact, I think you would be hard pressed to come across a book about food that didn’t pay homage to the city where food and eating are counted as art nearly equal to that of any ouvre in the Louvre. But what is rare is to discover a food writer who can effectively sweep you away to the city, reach out from the pages to grab your hand, and in a few short paragraphs transport you from a $50 couch in Washington, DC, to a world of romance and new-ness, showing you a Paris that is as different from your Paris as apples from oranges and yet still so familiar. That is the sort of writer that Ruth Reichl is. And this is her Paris:
My Paris was uncomfortable pensions on the outskirts of town, cheap meals that started with watery soup and ended with watery flan. It was always being cold. It was hours peering through the gloom of the badly lighted Louvre.
Colman’s Paris was not mine.
He liked to start the day by strolling through the flower market and listening to the birds. Every morning he woke me with fresh flowers. Then he took me to Lauduree for coffee and croissants and we sat there, beneath the ancient paintings of nymphs and angels, bantering with the waitresses in their black dresses and white aprons. After three days we were regulars, and they didn’t even ask what we wanted, but simply put out the pots of coffee and hot milk, and the plates of croissants.
He showed me streets I had never seen before and small, out-of-the-way museums. He took me to the cemetery and we danced around Proust’s tomb, and afterward we went to Le Petit Zinc and ate platters of claires and speciales washed down with a cold, crisp Sancerre. We walked along the Seine in the damp November air. . .
(From Reichl, Ruth (2001). Comfort Me with Apples. New York: Random House.)
Not only is this simply a series of lovely images, but it demonstrates one of most remarkable aspects of Paris–every true lover of Paris has a Paris that is all their own. One you can hold close to your breast, knowing that while people from around the world visit the city each day, your Paris is yours to keep to yourself or choose to share with a lover or an old friend or a complete stranger. Reading about the city constantly invites us to see, taste, and experience a new Paris